Wednesday 23 March 2016

Tongariro Part II, crumble and Red Rocks

As promised, herewith my account of the Tongariro Crossing, plus a trip to Red Rocks.

James, Hannah, Rob (Oxford medics) and I set off at first light from Mangetepopo Hut, climbing to the foot of Mt Ngauruhoe as the sun crept up the other side. Turning to look behind us we could clearly see Mt Taranaki out to the West. After a pause in the sun gazing up at 'Mt Doom' we crunched across the still-frozen South Crater; apart from a lone photographer we were the only people there.
South Crater looking towards Ngauruhoe
A climb on the far side to the Tongiriro summit turn off (later the scene of 15min queues) and we could see right out across Lake Taupo and beyond. A leisurely pace took us up along the ridge to Mt Tongiriro summit, which we shared with two French men and concentrated on not falling off from marvelling at the 360 views. We tried to spot Roger, Greg and Sam on Mt Ngauruhoe too.
Mt Tongariro summit - on top of the world (Mt Ruapehu behind)
By the time we got back to the main path it had become Tottenham Court Rd at lunchtime (but not Piccadilly Circus). We sidled up to the rim of the Red Crater - very large, very red - and then a short steep climb to the highest point of the Crossing path, where suddenly you see the unearthly green Emerald Lakes ranged below. Several particularly good places to take a photo had queues, and I did worry about people sliding in the scree and off the edge. But good tramping manners reigned as we scree surfed down to firm ground at the lakes.

We had lunch by the Blue Lake, which is on the path out towards the Ketetahi carpark. I said goodbye to the medics in the early afternoon, as they had several more hours' tramping to go to Waihohonu hut (absolutely palatial in case you ever have the chance to stay there). I met Roger, Sam and Greg by the Emerald Lakes, biding time by being concerned for day hikers in running gear with no visible water.
Sitting by Blue Lake. We ate further away up the hillside as the Lake is important to local iwi and therefore eating and drinking is culturally insensitive
[The next morning] There was a stunning sunrise at Oturere Hut, with campers and tents silhouetted against it, as I walked to the loo. Getting up on Monday morning to drive to work from Trish and Andrew's made it three sunrises I'd seen in a row. Definitely a personal best.
Image: James Bradley-Watson, photographer

Monday this week was such a beautiful day we were inspired to drive out to Red Rocks south of Wellington city for a walk and seal spotting. We enjoyed the long shadows and golden light of the evening, marvelled at 4WD vehicles navigating 'Devil's Gate', spotted three seals and saw lots of red rocks.
Spot the seal
In other news, I made an excellent feijoa and peach crumble with Shand feijoas and White peaches. Unfortunately we ate it all before I could get a photo.
Here is the sunset at Red Rocks instead. You can see the South Island in the distance!

This week's Wellington life tit bit: my walk to work takes me under The Terrace via Woodward St pedestrian tunnel, or, if you shut your eyes, via the Kumutoto Stream, complete with burbling water, cicadas and bird noises. The effect almost takes you back to a time before the Terrace.
A time before the Terrace (Tongariro Crossing)


We're off to the Bay of Islands and Northland this week, so expect tales from Russell, Kerikeri Stone Store, Cape Reinga and Matapouri beach. Fingers crossed Metservice has the weather right!

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