The new city and the old volcano

Ladies and gentlemen, our 20th blog post! And we start with a shout out to Becky for running and finishing the London Marathon in less than 4 hours, while we were sleeping. (In fact I did wake up at 3am and refresh the tracker to make sure you'd finished #dedication).

Dawn over Fendalton, Christchurch

Last week I worked for two days in Meridian's Christchurch office, with lunch both days at the excellent Oddfellows Cafe (recommend it if you're in Chch!) and relaxing evenings staying at Diana and David's. Roger joined us on Friday evening for a delicious meal (including late boom raspberries) and we asked and heard first hand about the earthquake(s), aftermath and ongoing rebuild and regeneration work. We therefore had some local perspective as we walked round the city centre on Saturday.

We started at the 185 empty white chairs memorial for those who lost their lives in the quake; from a bar stool to desk chair to child's carry cot, each chair is individual. Nearby is the  'cardboard cathedral', an elegant and light building, and the sobering site of the CTV Building, where 115 people died. We walked on to Christchurch Cathedral. One end lies collapsed still, grass growing on the rubble. The decision on what to do with the Cathedral is crucial for the rebuild of the surrounding area.

The Re:start shipping container mall was a more cheering sight, with clothes and boutique shops, food stalls and buskers. We also visited the excellent Art Gallery to see the famous Canterbury landscapes and some more mixed modern pieces. After lunch at Re:start we wandered the botanical gardens but were not allowed to punt the Avon independently, according to the blazered, boatered punt tour guides. 

Akaroa Lighthouse, moved to the town from the harbour heads

We drove out to the Banks Peninsula on Saturday afternoon in low cloud and rain with the forecast not predicting much better. We arrived at Onuku Heights farm at dusk, following successful navigation of two creeks on the hillside track, where Roger's friend Anna's Dad Jack greeted us. A beer or two fuelled a joint effort on dinner: delicious venison steaks cooked very rare, with caramelized onion and mushrooms, mash, broccoli and homegrown carrots. Pinot noir washed it down and cheese and apples from the orchard followed. 

You can see Onuku Heights farmhouse

A perfect mix of farmhouse homeliness, elegant furnishings and modern local art, it was only the next morning that we fully appreciated the house's stunning view out across Akaroa Harbour. Not a cloud in the sky!

The three of us set off to walk the new one-day Skytrack - a must-do if you visit Akaroa. It climbs up the side of the old volcano's crater, following the Banks Peninsula Track at its highest point, around the rim (with a side trip to Stony Bay Peak) and then descends into Akaroa town. The views are spectacular. We were lucky to have Jack as our guide on flora and fauna, farm practices and local personalities. A confused solo tramper was also lucky to have Jack to authoritatively assure him that we were correctly going the 'wrong' way and not to follow us (he was on the longer BP Track).

Stony Bay Peak

I was trying out walking with a pole, which was particularly good on the steep way down off Stony Bay Peak. It was also put to good use rescuing a hat belonging to an Argentinian, avoiding a precarious rescue mission by her less-than-athletic looking friend.

Picking up the car back in Akaroa, Jack drove us along the scenic route that we missed in the rain the evening before. The evening light was golden on the hillside and harbour. In a second show of great teamwork we created steak with sesame-and-lemon rice, silver beet from the garden (divine) and apple crumble for pudding. We hope there was still some crumble for when Jack's wife Charlotte arrived back this week!

On 25 April 1915 the ANZAC forces landed at Gallipoli, and on 25 April 2016 we remembered them and others who have fought in wars across the world. We went to the very well-attended Akaroa Anzac Day service in sunshine at the war memorial. A guest superintendent policewoman gave the address, and used the swift arrival of the Australian police force to help after the Christchurch earthquake as a recent example of the ANZAC spirit living on. Sixth formers from the high school read out short accounts of local men who'd given their lives (106 from Akaroa). There was the traditional Last Post and Reveille bugles, and wreaths from all three forces, the RSA and the Brownies & Guides. We sang two hymns, God Save the Queen, Advance Australia Fair, and finished with a heartfelt God Defend New Zealand. Then we could all place our poppies in two sand pits on the steps.

Okains Bay

After goodbye and a big thanks to Jack we drove to Okains Bay for a walk on the beach and short coastal track to sweet Little Okains Bay. We will have to return for the Colonial and Maori Museum, which requires several hours! We took the Summit Road back towards Christchurch, and climbed Gibraltar Rock as the sun was going down, the outline of the Southern Alps on the horizon. 

Our final stop was in Halswell, to debrief with the West Coast biking crew: Trish and Andrew, Mark and Katie (and Mia the dog, although she's not anatomically capable of riding a bicycle). We compared weekends over fish and chips, and even managed to catch the end of the ubiquitous reality tv show, 'the Bachelor' (whilst agreeing what a terrible programme it is). 

Back to reality on a 7am JetStar flight into Wellington Tuesday morning. On the plus side I had all my tramping snacks available at my desk during the day, and Roger discovered his work provides free plunger coffee!

Gibraltar Rock selfie

Next time: two football matches and Roger does a 'Crazyman' race.