Partying like it's 1935

A couple of Saturdays ago we had our first BBQ of the 'summer', at the very-kiwi, charming Hataitai house of friends Erica and Derek. Narrowly missing a second round of sausages, we drove to meet Roger's Dad Alan and Fay off the Auckland-to-Wellington scenic train. They settled in next door in the Quest Apartments and we dined at the Boulcott St Bistro - straight on the NZ lamb shank!

Brodie Estate cellar door

On Sunday we drove over to Martinborough for a tasting and platter lunch at Poppies, followed by two more tastings and an introduction to the Brodie Estate vineyard dog, who stars in the book Wine Dogs of New Zealand. The biggest achievement was getting French-wine-loving Alan to admit the pinot noirs were "good". Roger cooked up Ngawi blue cod for a relaxed dinner in the flat.

The week produced some mixed weather but Alan and Fay explored Wellington thoroughly, on thorough daily instructions from Roger. They became locals at Karaka cafe next to the lagoon, where there is always entertainment in various forms of small boat being launched and paddled by a range of ages. 

The Tobacco Company merged Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles

On Friday we all headed up to Napier for the Art Deco Festival. We stayed in a hotel fit for a honeymoon, Mangapapa, which had its own vineyard and an amazing chef. On Saturday it rained for the first time on Art Deco weekend in 25 years. Undeterred, our first 1930s experience was a classic car tour with a very knowledgeable guide who took us all round the area, to Ahuriri and the best art deco suburban streets as well as the central buildings.

Furto

Deco selfie

Fay bought a hat, I bought a hat and we joined the people lining the streets to enjoy the classic car parade. There were some very beautiful cars, beautiful outfits and lots of umbrellas. We took tea and cake in an overflowing cafe with many fox furs.

Architectural pudding

With the afternoon becoming decidedly soggy we headed back to change and go out for a wine taste. Te Mata estate and Craggy Range served us well, plus we met an entertaining Welsh woman. Dinner had to be at Mangapapa. It started with salmon and an oyster, then a vegetarian risotto, duck confit with delish trimmings, melon sorbet and architectural wonderment for dessert (see left). We learnt that the Japanese hotel owner was also one of the owners of Sony. We ate at a table next to a limited Picasso print.

Making the most of the 'picnic'

Sunday was sunny. We drove up Te Mata Peak for the glorious Hawke's Bay views. However the previous days' rain had flooded the lawn and marquee of the Great Gatsby picnic, so the VIP event was held in a convention centre, where in true Depression style the guests made the most of a dark-ish room with minimal furnishings and a jazz band. The buffet was yummy and the music enticed an excellent Charleston-dancing couple to perform impromptu. These were Roger's favourite people, because they later told him he looked like a more attractive Daniel Radcliffe. He did have his Harry Potter glasses on at the time (see above).

Leaving the 'picnic' early (without the table wine - we were going to smuggle it out but they stationed someone on the door..) we scored some photos in the Navy's classic car before heading our separate ways: Alan and Fay to Rotorua for a Maori village evening experience and Roger and me to Wellington for work on Monday.

Sadly we weren't driven back to Wellington in it

We had a beautiful week of Wellington summer and took Alan and Fay to two of our fave restaurants: Venetian tapas at Ombra and Asian fusion tapas at Chow. They then headed off on a 3-day road trip of the north part of the South Island, enjoying Nelson and Hanmer Springs particularly and eating a lot of mussels along the way. Back in the big smoke, on their final weekend we went to local favourite Scorching Bay for a paddle, back to Boulcott St Bistro for our last evening together and on the way to the airport to the Mt Vic Chippery for a final authentic Welly experience. 

Scorching Bay

Roger and I have a busy week ahead with double dragonboat training and double birthday present evenings for me. I'm also going to learn first aid!

Nelson Lakes - the best jetlag antidote

Last Friday I jumped out of work into a car with Rich and Lucy. We crossed the Cook Straight by ferry, whilst I slept under a chair after a tiring week. The cabin Rich had booked in Picton was therefore much appreciated, if spider-filled.

A moment's break from Mountain Biking

Come morning we headed over to Nelson, fuelled by coffee and petrol. Renting bikes, we headed up the route of the oldest railway in New Zealand, which came several years before steam power reached the Land of the Long White Cloud (the carriages were horse-drawn).

Dora's plane landing in Nelson

After some long up hill slogs and hair-raising downhill adventures we settled down on Nelson’s beach to drink iced coffee and watch Dora’s flight land.  She arrived slightly jetlagged after 30 hours of travel, so I gave her some frozen yoghurt and encouraged her to jump in the sea. Jetlag treatment complete (for now…) we drove over to St Arnaud, gateway to Nelson Lakes, for some pinot noir, pizza and packing.

Sunday morning dawned, and we were up and climbing Robert Ridge quicker than you could shake a stick, if you were fairly sedate in your twig twitching. Deep forest gave way to rugged shrubs, which were eventually buried beneath scree and sheer cliffs as we traversed rocky slopes to Angelus Hut.

[Right] View back down the valley from Robert Ridge.

One of the many aqua lakes we passed on the other side of RR

The hut is, unsurprisingly, one of the jewels in the crown of New Zealand’s Department of Conservation. It is situated at 1400m beside two almost-connecting clear blue lakes, which we jumped in to then jumped out of pretty sharpish. It has a sun deck which we were tempted to lie on all afternoon...

View from hut bunkroom

However, feeling refreshed, and in Dora’s case a little less jetlagged, we clambered up Mount Angelus, which is 2000+ metres of shattered cliffs and grassy turfs clinging on for dear life. The peak, however, was worth the effort. Dora’s tiredness, Lucy’s burgeoning chest infection, Rich’s dodgy ankles and my poor navigation skills were all forgotten as we wondered at the sight of Angelus Hut in the distance, the long Lake Rotoroa splitting the land in half, and the surrounding peaks goading the clouds above to come down and meet them (which they did the next day).

Dora, Rich and Lucy make their way up Mt Angelus

Lake Angelus in the distance on the way down Mt Angelus

We slipped and slid our way down, picking up some camouflaged binoculars ‘off piste’ that had managed to hide from their original owner. A further dip in the arctic lake roused us for a final energetic cooking session. We sat back and devoured chilli con carne, a birthday chocolate cheesecake and cheese and crackers, sharing them with our fellow hutters.

Monday was Waitangi Day, so we weren’t missed at work as we hobbled down steep Cascade Track into the valley and then along the shores of Lake Rotoiti. Several waterfalls, a (erratic) boulder-strewn mossy forest and pernicious sand flies were the high and lowlights of our day’s tramping.

Once we’d regained the comfortable back seats of Rich and Lucy’s car we were whisked back to Picton, picking up some molten lava pies en route to the ferry. As the waves of the Cook Straight lapped the boat we napped and I ate a yoghurt.

Back at work this week, we’ve kept ourselves entertained with dragon boat training.

Giving each other some space... 12 thousand miles of it!

This short blog summaries the last couple of weeks, during which Dora has been visiting friends and family in the UK, and I’ve been visiting the library in Wellington.

Up a hill with Rich (left) and Matt (behind the camera)

My choice of venue was determined by the need to do some heavy intellectual lifting for my MA in Global Diplomacy. I’ve now tucked 5,000 words under my belt and am looking ahead to my dissertation, which will probably focus on Ebola.

When not doing (paid) work or (unpaid) work, I’ve been running up hills with friends and venturing out into Wellington Harbour to test my new wetsuit. Both adventures went swimmingly.

Dora, meanwhile...

I swapped the unconvincing Wellington summer weather for the UK in January. My busy two weeks started with a cold snap in Waterperry, during which Mum and I lived off hot water bottles and merino. London proved just as cold, and smoggier, but redeemed itself in being home to many brilliant friends, who turned up to catch up and compliment my tan. Thank you to Becky and Greg in particular for an impromptu birthday dinner, complete with cake, fancy French wine and an animated movie.

Smog was replaced by fog in the shires as Mum and I experienced Andover's new Travelodge, to have a relaxed pub dinner with Charles (I thrilled them with the inner workings of the NZ electricity industry) who I hadn't seen for over a year. The next morning we scored free cooked breakast, thanks to friendly Travelodge staff member Kyle.

My next stop was Bristol. Jess and Ada met me off the train and we had a lovely 24hrs hanging out together. I felt very lucky to spend so much time with gorgeous Ada. Raclette at Charles and Lydia's with Julius (particularly good veggie skewers, resisted instagramming) was topped off with a now-classic kiwi film, Hunt for the Wilderpeople.

There was a beautiful light in Bernwood Forest on the afternoon of the memorial walk for Louis, which I unsuccessfully captured on my phone (left) in contrast to his beautiful black and white film photos. There was an overwhelming turn out of friends and families for a warm occasion.

Dad arrived later that afternoon and I had a second birthday dinner and cake!

All too soon it was goodbye to Charles and Julius. Seeing a host of friends at an Oxford pub gathering helped my spirits. That evening, Mum, Dad and I watched the Sandhurst Parade video, poised over the pause button. We were rewarded with a close up, which we replayed several times (sorry Julius).

Monday was spent with delightful Christina (my goddaughter, now three!) who organised us into various games and classes, as well as adopting a caterpillar over lunch. On Tuesday it was lovely to catch up with Keith and Susan at home, and walk in the wintry Gardens. Wednesday I turned 27 and hung out with Mum and Dad at Blackwells in Oxford. On Thursday, I made a final visit to Louis' bench and Deborah at the church, before heading to Heathrow.

One longest-scheduled-flight-in-the-world and one chatty kiwi called Graham later and I arrived over the beach into sunny Nelson!