Biking the Lake and Birding the Island

This weekend we used some annual leave to splice together a weekend and a Tuesday bank holiday (ANZAC Day).

The starting line assembly

A Friday night dash up to Lake Taupo set us up for a lakeside cycle on Saturday, organised by Trish. We fitted right in to Trish and Andrew's cycling group, who combined a love of the outdoors with a healthy appreciation for the benefits of hearty meals and post-exercise drinks.

Saturday morning saw our support crew Maureen, Marg (and, after a misplaced bolt, a chivalrous Chris) deposit us at the start of a big section of the Great Lake Trail, a single track mountain bike trail which would take us through the hills West of Lake Taupo to meet a helpful friend, Doug, in his boat. We pedalled down a river valley (but counter-intuitively up several hills and along cliff-sides) and made good progress as we gained confidence and posed for photos. Spot the waterfall in the pic below:

Spot the unicorn of the bike trip

Echo rock, where it sounds like the stream across the path is actually "in" the concave rock, but totally disappears when you're close in.

We also had a clear view to Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu on the far side of the Lake, at the stunning lunch spot!

Unfortunately Lady Luck was also on holiday. Three chain breaks later we were slightly less relaxed about meeting the boat on time. A huge landslip had also wiped out the track down to the beach landing, forcing us to brave a steep decent down the well-named ‘goat track’, bikes held aloft.

But we were picked successfully up Dunkirk-style (without the jeopardy) by Doug and the support crew, then re-landed for a final 10km section back to Kinloch, to make sure we were thoroughly exhausted. A delicious lamb dinner, farm chat and lashings of wine saw us restored to health, and we slept soundly. Thanks for the ride, company, food and hosting, Trish and Andrew, Marg and David, Chris and Andy, and Maureen and David!

Before the spill gates open

After the gates open

The next day, relaxing and sunny, we departed the group and cycled from Huka Falls to the Aratiatia Dam to see the (famous cos they're in the Hobbit) Aratiatia rapids, caused by the regular discharge of excess water from the River Waikato, which was as impressive as it was terrifying (there are alarms and warnings and fences to try to avoid swimmers).

We then drove down to Otaki, catching an epic sunset en route on the Desert Road, which gave us a little car photo opp.

Kapiti Island

On Monday morning we boarded a ferry for a long-awaited trip to Kapiti Island. It’s a predator-free nirvana for birdlife, which we saw, heard and, in Dora’s case, felt as we walked to the top of the island. Our serene scenic picnic was then interrupted by a new airborne beast – a helicopter that delivered workmen and materials to upgrade the path.

[Dora] For the bird-watchers amongst you we saw: lots of North Island robins, tui and fantails, lots of cheeky weka, a couple of kereru (native wood pigeons), two female and one big male hihi (stitchbird), several flitty whiteheads, bell birds, glimpses of kakariki (green parakeets), two cheeky kaka, and, the highlight for me - two saddlebacks, which are of the same family as the rare kokako and extinct huia. See next week's blog for the bird low-down!

A boat took us to our own protected habitat for the night, a tent beautifully set up with double bed amidst bird-laden bush! We settled in, helped by a steaky family-feel dinner, friendly co-guests and warm host Manaaki, who took us on a night time Kiwi-spotting tour in search of the nocturnal national mascot.

Unfortunately we only heard the Kiwi close by, despite an hour of creeping around the forest with only the dimmest of lights. We were happy enough to be shown some tree Weta and enjoy the starlight, and were ready for sleep when the hunt was finally abandoned.

Another morning, another viewpoint and a beach walk (highlight – dead, smelly whale). We relaxed much of the afternoon, and met the resident Takahe (only 250 in the world) before returning, first to Paraparaumu, then to Wellington.

A three-day working week awaits, but there’s some pain at the end of this short tunnel… more on that next week. 

A Marlborough march and Tasman taste travels

Four day weeks are the best. 

Helen and Duncan walked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, visited Hobbiton, experienced an authentic Maori evening and scarpered south with Cyclone Cook hot on their heels. We had a delicious meal out all together in Wellington at Floriditas, with Terrace Edge pinot noir (last seen at the vineyard in this blog).

On Thursday Wellington pulled its famous harbour vanishing trick using some fog, but our guests were happy exploring Te Papa museum (the highlight: the giant squid of course). Despite Cyclone Cook warnings reaching fever pitch, the evening Interislander sailing was smooth and we instead watched various windswept TVNZ reporters gesturing at puddles around the country. Thankfully the huge storm did less damage than expected.


The next morning we breakfasted at our quaint Picton B&B with a friendly kiwi bloke, before zooming out by water taxi to Ship Cove (and removing various unnecessary items from Helen's day pack, such as two Kindles, on the way). Captain Cook hung out quite a while at Ship Cove, the furthest point on the track, and one of the Endeavor cannons is there at a monument. It was a big day: 27.5km of coastal track (mud) ahead - and two official days of the track. 

Rainbows and misty views rewarded us, accompanied by flitting fantails, vocal bell birds and one big plump kereru (wood pigeon). We were rather lucky to know Trent and Louise, who own a bach on Endeavor Inlet. They kindly hosted us for a delicious light lunch that fueled us back onto the trail and round to Punga Cove resort as dusk fell.

Showers and a spa preceded arguably the best meal anyone's ever had on a tramp, at Punga Cove restaurant. Then some impromptu yoga and a loooong sleep.

Day Two!

24.5km lay ahead the next day, mostly higher in the bush, with beech forest and kanuka, more sunshine, and views over the Kenepuru Sound as well as Q. Charlotte. We had a little nap at lunch, confident in our 17:55 water taxi. On ringing to confirm the taxi, however, they brought this forward to 16:45 - a thundering pace ensued to reach Torea Bay and Caleb the boatman!

 Back in Picton we opted for the Speights (The Thirsty Pig, last seen in this blog) for a hearty, if vegge light, dinner, before Roger drove the sleeping carload to our Nelson Airbnb.

Helen and Duncan were thrilled by their first experience in an Airbnb. We had a relaxed morning walking round Nelson, along the river and visiting the Suter Gallery. After lunch at the Boatshed cafe (steak sandwiches and melty camembert-like cheeses) we hired bikes and set off on the great taste trail and coastal cycle way.

Being Easter Sunday, the options were limited, but we made the most of Te Mania / Richmond Plains' tasting room which was operating under some kind of other world license (everywhere else can only serve alcohol with a full meal on Easter Sunday). We wobbled to a cafe then tried a brewery but were thwarted by the meal rule (snacks didn't count!). The beautiful coastal scenery of the bike ride more than made up for the lack of drinks, especially with the rain starting to come down. 

More excellent kiwi fare in Nelson that evening sent Duncan and Helen off to bed, while Rog and I joined friends Erica and Derek in Mac's where we sipped water (Easter Sunday) and Roger got told off for finishing Erica's friend's beer.

Easter Monday: our last chance to show our guests the South Island! We hotfooted to Murchison, where a previously unexplored Skyline track took us up to sunsoaked views of the Buller River and Kahurangi National Park mountains. In Murchison we picked up some classic bacon and egg pie at the dairy-cum-cafe and zipped through the beautiful Gowen valley to Lake Rotoroa. Pie scoffed, sandflies splatted, 19th century recluse prospector's canoe inspected, and achingly lovely view admired, we soared on to Lake Rotoiti. Fewer sandflies, two swans, lots of eels, countless jetty posers. 

From Rotoiti to Blenheim, admiring the Mt Richmond Park and increasing fields of vines. We stopped at a little hub of craft and knitwear stores, a tasting room and a cafe, for tea and cake on deckchairs next to the vines. And a cheeky tasting.

How did we all fit in?!

The Aratere Interislander ship (the one that was cut in half and lengthened) was heaving with people, necessitating speedy acquisition of lasagne and chips, and the treat of Kapiti ice creams later on.

Helen and Duncan left (hopefully not too exhausted) on Tuesday morning. Another four day week!



Here's a treat for reading to the end: a beautifully caught cormorant

A Kiwi welcome

Yealands vineyard in Marlborough, where we dropped in at harvest

My Thursday morning Jetstar to Auckland happened to coincide with Mum and Duncan’s flight in from Los Angeles. I hitched a lift in their taxi, together with a South African girl they’d adopted during their journey.

I did some work while they explored the volcanic island of Rangitoto (est.1200). We then grabbed some Kiwi-Italian fare as jetlag took hold.

Meanwhile Dora was holding an umbrella over the cameraman near Seddon, the earthquake-prone town in Marlborough, back on the electric car journey. 

Friday saw us complete the coast-to-coast walk across Auckland. Mt Eden was a particular highlight, as was the museum where we stopped for some natural and cultural history. Our evening was spent finding grub in the flash district of Ponsonby, where even I felt old.

View from Mt. Eden, the Sky tower in the left, Mt. Rangitoto on the right (volcanic crater in the foreground)

The next morning (prepare yourself for some logistics-heavy narrative) I made sure they were safely ensconced on the scenic tourist train, took a flight down to Wellington, and drove up with Dora to meet them at Palmerston North, from which we drove them to Trish and Andrew's near Marton for a warm kiwi welcome. After significant quantities of red wine, familiar and delicious slow-cooked lamb and roasties and extensive UK-NZ comparisons, sleep was helped by the gentle rocking of a 4.6 magnitude earthquake.

A Sunday morning walk around the farm, feijoa-tasting and some excellent Whitebait fritters set Mum and Duncan up for their mini road trip of the North Island, starting at the Tongariro Crossing. Dora and I jumped on an intercity bus to Wellington laden down with home-grown enormous feijoas as the sun set over the Kapiti coast, turning the Tararuas pink.

This week Dora and I will get some work done while our guests do the Crossing, head to Hobbiton, rush to Rotorua, and whisk back to Wellington. 

We're really looking forward to our Easter weekend with Mum and Duncan in the Marlborough Sounds and Nelson, where we have a packed walking and winery schedule.

Sunset with South Island in the distance, on the bus back to Welly

Out and about: Makara, Wairarapa and Otaki

It proved difficult for Dora to extract herself from her South Island electric car tour, so when she eventually made it back from Invercargill we relaxed into last weekend with a day of odd jobs. Come Sunday, however, we awoke reenergised and ready for the annual Xterra West Wind run.

Dora was sound teching for the event’s videographer, interviewing runners and taking photos (aka protecting her gammy foot) so I kept myself entertained on the 18km course. One rocky beach, three gut-wrenching hills and some pleasant wind-turbine- scattered scenery later I popped out at the end. I was a couple of seconds slower than last year, but content that I had given it my all.

Check out the resulting official video (spot Roger) here on Dora's Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/dora.coventry

We finished off the weekend by hosting Rich, Lucy, Matt and Laura over for Sunday roast. The highlight was some pork crackling was too perfect to be repeated.

Sunset in the big smoke from my Ibis Budget tiny loft room balcony

[Dora] During the week I attended a conference in Auckland with my electric-car co-driver Jaimee, all about content (basically stuff that a brand produces). We got to watch some very cool videos from the likes of GoPro and Nike, whilst trying to work out in our heads how we could make electricity similarly exciting. Luckily, we have an electric car!

Roger watched the All Whites play Fiji during the week

Wellington fog stranded half the country's working population in Auckland, so I had the opportunity to see Tom, Sophie and Sylvie briefly and babysit Sylvie (piece of cake - sleeping baby!), which was a silver lining. I weasled my way onto a flight the next day, home in time to take Friday off with Mum.

Under a blue sky we headed over the windy Rimutaka road to the plains and vineyards of the Wairarapa. In Martinborough we browsed little boutiquey shops and walked round the pretty, leafy town square to work up an appetite. It had to be Poppies for lunch, where we shared a glass of rose and a complementary platter, served by Shane himself (Poppy's husband). After ogling the vineyard wedding venue, we set off for the river. I'd found this spot with Sophie and Adam a few months earlier and it was just as perfect for swimming but much colder in April! We plunged and felt refreshed.

Back in Wellington we visited St Paul's Cathedral to see my namesake Dora's bell, and the chapel. We also lit a candle for family friends who recently lost their Mum to cancer. 

[Roger] Then last weekend we headed up to Otaki on the Kapiti coast, where Dora’s family have a bach. Aunt Trish and Uncle Andrew joined us there for lunch with Aunt Helen (other side of the family!), walks on the beach, tales from Margaret and Trish's childhood, a slow-cooked lamb dinner and plenty of lazing on deck chairs.

Moody Otaki Beach and Kapiti Island

On the way back we dabbled in the Tararua Mountain Range with an hour hike, but the weather soon closed in and chased us back to Windy Wellington.

This week Dora (again!) headed off for some electric car fun. In retaliation I flew up to Auckland to meet my Mum and her partner Duncan and welcome them to Middle Earth and their Easter adventure with us.