A Marlborough march and Tasman taste travels

Four day weeks are the best. 

Helen and Duncan walked the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, visited Hobbiton, experienced an authentic Maori evening and scarpered south with Cyclone Cook hot on their heels. We had a delicious meal out all together in Wellington at Floriditas, with Terrace Edge pinot noir (last seen at the vineyard in this blog).

On Thursday Wellington pulled its famous harbour vanishing trick using some fog, but our guests were happy exploring Te Papa museum (the highlight: the giant squid of course). Despite Cyclone Cook warnings reaching fever pitch, the evening Interislander sailing was smooth and we instead watched various windswept TVNZ reporters gesturing at puddles around the country. Thankfully the huge storm did less damage than expected.


The next morning we breakfasted at our quaint Picton B&B with a friendly kiwi bloke, before zooming out by water taxi to Ship Cove (and removing various unnecessary items from Helen's day pack, such as two Kindles, on the way). Captain Cook hung out quite a while at Ship Cove, the furthest point on the track, and one of the Endeavor cannons is there at a monument. It was a big day: 27.5km of coastal track (mud) ahead - and two official days of the track. 

Rainbows and misty views rewarded us, accompanied by flitting fantails, vocal bell birds and one big plump kereru (wood pigeon). We were rather lucky to know Trent and Louise, who own a bach on Endeavor Inlet. They kindly hosted us for a delicious light lunch that fueled us back onto the trail and round to Punga Cove resort as dusk fell.

Showers and a spa preceded arguably the best meal anyone's ever had on a tramp, at Punga Cove restaurant. Then some impromptu yoga and a loooong sleep.

Day Two!

24.5km lay ahead the next day, mostly higher in the bush, with beech forest and kanuka, more sunshine, and views over the Kenepuru Sound as well as Q. Charlotte. We had a little nap at lunch, confident in our 17:55 water taxi. On ringing to confirm the taxi, however, they brought this forward to 16:45 - a thundering pace ensued to reach Torea Bay and Caleb the boatman!

 Back in Picton we opted for the Speights (The Thirsty Pig, last seen in this blog) for a hearty, if vegge light, dinner, before Roger drove the sleeping carload to our Nelson Airbnb.

Helen and Duncan were thrilled by their first experience in an Airbnb. We had a relaxed morning walking round Nelson, along the river and visiting the Suter Gallery. After lunch at the Boatshed cafe (steak sandwiches and melty camembert-like cheeses) we hired bikes and set off on the great taste trail and coastal cycle way.

Being Easter Sunday, the options were limited, but we made the most of Te Mania / Richmond Plains' tasting room which was operating under some kind of other world license (everywhere else can only serve alcohol with a full meal on Easter Sunday). We wobbled to a cafe then tried a brewery but were thwarted by the meal rule (snacks didn't count!). The beautiful coastal scenery of the bike ride more than made up for the lack of drinks, especially with the rain starting to come down. 

More excellent kiwi fare in Nelson that evening sent Duncan and Helen off to bed, while Rog and I joined friends Erica and Derek in Mac's where we sipped water (Easter Sunday) and Roger got told off for finishing Erica's friend's beer.

Easter Monday: our last chance to show our guests the South Island! We hotfooted to Murchison, where a previously unexplored Skyline track took us up to sunsoaked views of the Buller River and Kahurangi National Park mountains. In Murchison we picked up some classic bacon and egg pie at the dairy-cum-cafe and zipped through the beautiful Gowen valley to Lake Rotoroa. Pie scoffed, sandflies splatted, 19th century recluse prospector's canoe inspected, and achingly lovely view admired, we soared on to Lake Rotoiti. Fewer sandflies, two swans, lots of eels, countless jetty posers. 

From Rotoiti to Blenheim, admiring the Mt Richmond Park and increasing fields of vines. We stopped at a little hub of craft and knitwear stores, a tasting room and a cafe, for tea and cake on deckchairs next to the vines. And a cheeky tasting.

How did we all fit in?!

The Aratere Interislander ship (the one that was cut in half and lengthened) was heaving with people, necessitating speedy acquisition of lasagne and chips, and the treat of Kapiti ice creams later on.

Helen and Duncan left (hopefully not too exhausted) on Tuesday morning. Another four day week!



Here's a treat for reading to the end: a beautifully caught cormorant