Making the most of Melbourne and the Coast

Welcome to the bumper Melbourne edition!

Thursday - culture day

Higher Ground breakfast

We touched down at 8am Melbourne time, armed with a list of recommendations from friends and colleagues. Our bags stowed in the station lockers, we headed straight for the "la-di-da brunch place" Higher Ground on Little Bourke St.

It turned out to be former power station building, whose airy light interior was stylishly fitted out - all Scandi furniture, brick and pot plants. The breakfast was our first and best food of the city trip!

After quite a long time at Higher Ground we wandered through the very centre of Melbourne, ending up at Federation Square. The rain coming down, we popped into the Ian Potter Centre (part of the National Gallery of Victoria) to see a photography exhibition by an artist who collects others' photos from all eras. He buys them (mostly on the internet) and arranges them into themes; most interesting was a collection where each photo had the photographer's shadow in the shot.

Parliament Library

Next door at ACMI (Australian Centre for the Moving Image) we dipped into an interactive exhibition that seemed to be about the history of the moving image. We played Pong and Space Invaders but the noise and mass of children was too much!

Our next shelter from the rain was Parliament House, for an express tour of the chambers and library, and some lessons on what a gold rush can do for interior architecture. Walking on north we saw the Royal Exhibition Building, built for the 1888 Melbourne Centennial International Exhibition, and beyond that the modern slab of Melbourne Museum, where we had banana bread and a tea. Our final stop was the State Library's domed reading room, where we also took in the history of the city (and a lot about Ned Kelly).

The Reading Room at the State Library

A free city tram took us to the air bnb and a nap! Looking for a restaurant nearby (going off-recommendation-list) we tried an underground Middle Eastern place called Maha, with an enormous sumptuous set menu. Hummus, swordfish, sultanas, lamb, pumpkin and cardamon later we took our dessert home in a bag.

Friday - active day

The Arts Centre

A very gentle run (all parents and physios in the audience need not worry) in morning sunlight took us along the Southbank of the river, past the site of the Melbourne regatta and the Olympic Park (1954 but updated) and Rod Laver Arena on the other side, and into the impressive Botanical Gardens. Enjoying the autumn colours, we meandered back to the Arts Centre, where we had breakfast in the sunshine along with many small birds.

We delved into the National Gallery of Victoria (main site), enjoying both the range of greats - Turner, Monet, Manet, Picasso, Bauhaus furniture, Moore - and a quirky chairs design exhibit.

Free tram! (not all ye olde)

By 1.30pm we had nervously arrived via metro to Flemington, barely enjoying a delicious on-the-go lunch from a local cafe. We were ready for a John la Carré-style escape experience (Roger's birthday present). In good Cold War spy style it started with a 'drop': the briefcase. Following clues and instructions we navigated round the neighbourhood, discovering lock boxes and ending up at a black removals van. Inside we disarmed an alarm and deciphered codes in an outstanding display of teamwork, uncovering the evidence that cleared our names! Phew. Apparently some people chase actual vans around the streets...

A celebratory beer was due, so we headed to recommended rooftop bar Naked for Satan, which was not nearly as suggestive as it sounds, but it had a fantastic view. From there (Fitzroy) we roamed into Collingwood and dined at gourmet diner Huxtaburger. A tram took us back into town to the Crowne Casino, but just for the cinema, where we saw Dunkirk. If you haven't yet, see it!

Saturday - shopping day

Across the river, Dead Man Expresso served us omelette and pancakes for breakfast, fuelling a walk along the blustery River Esplanade to an unknown shopping centre for socks (me) and sunglasses (Roger). 

For a different shopping angle we trammed it up to Victoria Markets where we were initially disappointed by all the tat, but luckily found the Europe-worthy deli halls. Into the bag went cheese, and Koko Black chocolate served by a surprise English cut-glass-accented chocolatier.

Chapel St ("argh we haven't got any blog photos today!")

Skimming swiftly over some unappetizing Chinese dumpling-themed snacks, we took the tram to Chapel St (long road SE of CBD) for the independent shop browsing and people watching. A huge antiques/junk shop arranged into cabinets and cubbies could have absorbed me for the rest of the trip.

We ate at a Japanese diner, then headed to the Mission to Seafarers for an...Illuisionaire Magic Show! The building is a fascinating place, still operating to serve seafarers. It's like stepping back in time into a dance hall. But the show was in the brick Norla Dome, originally a gymnasium and now an atmospheric, close space. The magicians, Rosanna and Sam Angelico, were actually very good: engaged the audience without being annoying and made lots of things disappear and reappear.








Sunday - Great Ocean Road

On Sunday morning we took the train south to Geelong, to meet Gwyn and Andy, family friends who had generously offered to take us to the 12 Apostles and the Great Ocean Road. Dodging tourists and the rain we admired the huge rocky columns along the coast, and imagined the early sailing vessels navigating the choppy waters, bringing migrants and gold hunters.

The Loch Ard Gorge

There were only two survivors of the Loch Ard, 19-yr-old Eva and an able seaman, who revived them both with brandy and then climbed out of the steep gorge in which they were washed ashore. Through incredible good chance he met some drovers in the otherwise deserted coastal scrub. 

The rolling weather made for a dramatic Great Ocean Road sky. We stopped for coffee and home-made cake on the beach, and for a koala bear hanging out on the edge of the road! Wide-ranging conversations took up the drive back, to the Victoria market's cheese, Aussie wine and hearty soup, and an early night.

Monday

Roger turfed me out of bed at 8am, to join him for a compulsory jog along the Geelong esplanade. Gwyn then drove us to see the clashing waters at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay at Point Lonsdale, where we soaked up sunshine over coffee and watched a big fuel ship leave the bay. Too soon we had to leave Victoria by train, bus and plane. 



In Wellington airport we landed just ahead of a plane bringing my uni friend Rob from Brisbane! 

Wining, Dining and Climbing

Dora and I started our weekend in rather different ways. I studiously worked into the night, fuelled by pizza purloined from a networking event, before retiring early. Dora – rather less studiously – went to ‘Winetopia’.

[Dora] The wine equivalent of Beervana, Winetopia was a ready-made opportunity for a girls' evening out. Initially stalled by how packed Shed 6 was, Lucy, Phoebe, Laura, Chelsea and I soon mastered the art of shuffling round the vineyard stalls, regrouping to compare notes (literally) and using our 5 free taste tokens for the best wine. Pulled pork sliders, flavoursome dumplings and chocolate brownie helped soak up the winning Elephant Hill rose. We had a nightcap then a small but very fun boogie in town (because girls night out!) before Ubers were called.

Saturday morning brought us to a brilliant brunch at Rich and Lucy’s place. Great chat, chow and coffee brought Dora back to life, and then we drove North in search of winter.

Our original intention had been to climb Mt Ruapehu to pick up some skills with crampons and ice axes. However, a heavy snowfall meant the avalanche risk was too high for the tour we’d booked to proceed.  Undeterred (well, slightly deterred but still keen to climb something), we hatched our plans in an Ohakune burger bar for a Doger Discovery tour of our own.

The original target - Mt Ruapehu

We stayed the night in a typical kiwi homestead, run by a Yorkshire couple with some nice cats and an even nicer early-morning breakfast. A 6.30am departure took us to a ski rental, where we picked up some crampons (mine seemed to be borrowed from a museum) and ski poles. Unfortunately they were out of ice axes, but poles turned out to be more useful for the day ahead.

We had set our sights on a winter ascent of Mt Ngharahoe (Mt Doom, to LOTR fans).

Expert cramponing

Expert cheese-eating

Those of you who remember every single detail we’ve chronicled may remember I climbed this a year and a bit ago with Greg and Sam, on a blue sky day with the beating sun on our backs. This time the weather was similar, but the conditions presented a variety of new challenges. 

For example, first thing in the morning the 7km access road to the Tongariro Crossing (from which you access Ngharahoe) was too icy for our 2WD Golden Bullet to have a hope, so we had an unplanned prologue to our walk. Thankfully some photographers gave us a lift for the second half. We then had to overtake a number of tour groups of varying proficiency, and stomp our way up the saddle on a thick bed of snow that obscured the track beneath.

Pointing at Mt Tongariro and plane in the distance

Crater edge - staying well back

At the base of Ngharahoe we ate lunch, and donned crampons. Both turned out to be essential, as the steep snowy slope was exhausting and technical in equal measure. We had carefully researched the most likely avalanche risk areas, so sensibly avoided these and followed rock outcrops where possible. Two hours of zigzagging later we emerged atop the crater, to view snow-clad scenery. Two kiwi girls joined us, who we warned off the precarious snow overhang on the lip of the crater.

Mt Ruapehu in background - next time!

Views enjoyed, we slid down the mountain, our only casualty a dislodged water bottle that I can only assume is still rolling downhill somewhere in the wilderness. We powerwalked back to the start of the track, then unfortunately had to powerwalk a further 7km to our car. Several cars passed our outstretched thumbs – some were forgivably full, other unforgivably not!

 

By the time we reached the car we had were determined to not let others share our access road plight. It was now almost dark and there were plenty of cars abandoned at the access road entrance, so we drove back to the path start in search of tired trampers. We found four, including the aforementioned kiwi girls, so two shuttle-trips later we had completed our good deed for the day and returned to Wellington with halos and tired legs.

Come Monday only the tired legs remained. Luckily our working week is to be curtailed by the Trip To Melbourne – coming soon to a blog near you!

Everyone's a winner!

In workplaces across the country, all week, the Terrible Tackle of Sonny Bill was discussed ad nauseum, with the red card decision unanimously supported (but WHY? What was he thinking?). Meanwhile the press labelled the final Test a 'World Cup Final-level match' which of course sent the country into a complete jitter. 

You could have been fooled into thinking there was nothing else going on, but there was: we went swimming, and there was a work quiz which my team won entirely due to knowing the shipping company that owned the Titanic and the shipping company that built the Titanic.*

On Friday Roger gathered almost all his Wellington friends (Rich and Lucy were up in Auckland) for a delicious birthday curry at a local Malaysian and South Indian restaurant followed by a drink at a pub with grumpy regulars - very un-Wellington. 

On Saturday I joined Laura, Alyse, Sam, Menari and Elaine for Elaine's civilised hen do: first stop EscapeMate, where we worked seamlessly as a team of special agents to solve codes, crack riddles, gather evidence and ultimately make the time machine work to escape the lab of the kidnapped bio-weapons scientist.

Next, the special agents went to high tea at Hippopotamus, one of the best (and most high end) restaurants in Wellington. There was bottomless tea, fruity bubbles, excellent wedding chat and the best tasting savoury and sweet petits fours I think I've ever had (with apologies to the Ritz, Kuala Lumpur, where Becky and I had cream tea - the tea was better in KL!). 

The classy apres-midi was topped off by a James Bond worthy cocktail at the Library, a sort-of-hidden bar lined with books and populated with armchairs and sofas. The agent hens were joined by a few more and we headed to the infamous Green Man for the rugby and cheesy curry fries.

Everyone's a winner

The odds on a draw were 40-1! The lively pub was left murmuring in surprise at the final whistle, and with another referee decision to debate. Historics and histrionics aside, a drawn series felt like a fair result. 

Roger's Sunday birthday kicked off with eggs, pastry, coffee and orange juice at the flat and his birthday cards, which I'd been hiding. We then did his favourite activity of getting jobs done, but added in a walk up Colonial Knob (a hill) in Porirua in the wind and almost-rain. The birthday dinner starred roast lamb and banana cake (see pics). Happy 27th Roger!

This week we are all hunkering down as an icy blast sweeps the country, and I return to choir. 





*White Star Line and Harland & Wolff

The Lion(s), the Kiwi and the Forest

Ahh Wellington

This weekend began earlier than planned, as our friend Kiwi flew into Wellington at around 00:00 on Thursday/Friday, rather than Friday/Saturday as we originally expected! He explored Wellington as we finished the working week, and the city gradually filled up with Lions fans here to watch the second Saturday test against the All Blacks.

Pre flight confusion we’d arranged to head to Matt and Phoebe’s for dinner. We washed down some lovely lasagne with wine they’d recently tasted in the Wairarapa, and headed home to meet a merry Kiwi who had been making friends in Wellington’s Irish bars.

Japanese hotcake with
edible flowers

We’d wisely booked in an early morning session at Adrenaline Forest to blow away any cobwebs, although Kiwi was a little unwell and not so good with heights so opted out.  Safely harnessed, we balanced, zip-lined and jumped through the trees for a few hours. I then went off to lose a football match (1-0) while Dora, Matt and Phoebe returned to Wellington for lunch at Flight Hangar with a recuperated Kiwi.

Our rendezvous was at the Wellington Rugby Fan Zone, where Dora was catching up with an old Cambridge friend – originally from Christchurch – who she hadn’t seen in several years. Once those with tickets for the game (read: all our Welly friends) had left, we snuck away from the rain up to the first floor of Mac’s Brew Bar, where a poorly policed private function was watching the game. We bumped into Brits Lydia and Jack (last seen at Matt and Phoebe’s housewarming) and collectively enjoyed the Lions’ narrow win with a noisy 50:50 crowd. Kiwi joined many other kiwis in his shocked horror at an All Blacks loss.

Tadhg talks in detail about the Lions pack

Everyone loves Beauden

Central Wellington was abuzz following the game, and we revelled in the atmosphere until tiredness took us to bed at 1.30am. Seven hours later Dora bravely headed off to prepare the Lions press conference. [Dora] This time we saw Rowntree eat journalists alive, Tadhg Furlong remind us that if you didn’t meet the ABs head on they’d beat you, Faletau forget which way he came in, and Jamie George joke that his family had all gone home assuming they wouldn’t need to stay until the final test. After I left the office, I happened to be outside the Intercontinental to see Kieran Read, Beauden and Geordie Barratt and Steve Hansen get on the big All Blacks bus. They were glowing compared to the mellow Lions!

 

[Roger] Kiwi and I wandered out later, for a bacon and egg roll, a walk up Mt Vic and a Sunday lunch with friends (where Dora rejoined us). An evening of popcorn and Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them provided a calming closure to the weekend.

Unfortunately work kept me from seeing Kiwi off on Monday night, but he and Dora indulged in a strong Monday night of takeaway pizza, the TV that comes after the News and shortbread baking, of which 80% burnt due to Dora still being hypnotized by TV.

This week we’ll be recovering, working, swimming, studying and preparing for a weekend that holds much promise: the final leg of the Lions tour, a hen party for Dora and … [drum roll] my birthday.