Making the most of Melbourne and the Coast

Welcome to the bumper Melbourne edition!

Thursday - culture day

Higher Ground breakfast

We touched down at 8am Melbourne time, armed with a list of recommendations from friends and colleagues. Our bags stowed in the station lockers, we headed straight for the "la-di-da brunch place" Higher Ground on Little Bourke St.

It turned out to be former power station building, whose airy light interior was stylishly fitted out - all Scandi furniture, brick and pot plants. The breakfast was our first and best food of the city trip!

After quite a long time at Higher Ground we wandered through the very centre of Melbourne, ending up at Federation Square. The rain coming down, we popped into the Ian Potter Centre (part of the National Gallery of Victoria) to see a photography exhibition by an artist who collects others' photos from all eras. He buys them (mostly on the internet) and arranges them into themes; most interesting was a collection where each photo had the photographer's shadow in the shot.

Parliament Library

Next door at ACMI (Australian Centre for the Moving Image) we dipped into an interactive exhibition that seemed to be about the history of the moving image. We played Pong and Space Invaders but the noise and mass of children was too much!

Our next shelter from the rain was Parliament House, for an express tour of the chambers and library, and some lessons on what a gold rush can do for interior architecture. Walking on north we saw the Royal Exhibition Building, built for the 1888 Melbourne Centennial International Exhibition, and beyond that the modern slab of Melbourne Museum, where we had banana bread and a tea. Our final stop was the State Library's domed reading room, where we also took in the history of the city (and a lot about Ned Kelly).

The Reading Room at the State Library

A free city tram took us to the air bnb and a nap! Looking for a restaurant nearby (going off-recommendation-list) we tried an underground Middle Eastern place called Maha, with an enormous sumptuous set menu. Hummus, swordfish, sultanas, lamb, pumpkin and cardamon later we took our dessert home in a bag.

Friday - active day

The Arts Centre

A very gentle run (all parents and physios in the audience need not worry) in morning sunlight took us along the Southbank of the river, past the site of the Melbourne regatta and the Olympic Park (1954 but updated) and Rod Laver Arena on the other side, and into the impressive Botanical Gardens. Enjoying the autumn colours, we meandered back to the Arts Centre, where we had breakfast in the sunshine along with many small birds.

We delved into the National Gallery of Victoria (main site), enjoying both the range of greats - Turner, Monet, Manet, Picasso, Bauhaus furniture, Moore - and a quirky chairs design exhibit.

Free tram! (not all ye olde)

By 1.30pm we had nervously arrived via metro to Flemington, barely enjoying a delicious on-the-go lunch from a local cafe. We were ready for a John la Carré-style escape experience (Roger's birthday present). In good Cold War spy style it started with a 'drop': the briefcase. Following clues and instructions we navigated round the neighbourhood, discovering lock boxes and ending up at a black removals van. Inside we disarmed an alarm and deciphered codes in an outstanding display of teamwork, uncovering the evidence that cleared our names! Phew. Apparently some people chase actual vans around the streets...

A celebratory beer was due, so we headed to recommended rooftop bar Naked for Satan, which was not nearly as suggestive as it sounds, but it had a fantastic view. From there (Fitzroy) we roamed into Collingwood and dined at gourmet diner Huxtaburger. A tram took us back into town to the Crowne Casino, but just for the cinema, where we saw Dunkirk. If you haven't yet, see it!

Saturday - shopping day

Across the river, Dead Man Expresso served us omelette and pancakes for breakfast, fuelling a walk along the blustery River Esplanade to an unknown shopping centre for socks (me) and sunglasses (Roger). 

For a different shopping angle we trammed it up to Victoria Markets where we were initially disappointed by all the tat, but luckily found the Europe-worthy deli halls. Into the bag went cheese, and Koko Black chocolate served by a surprise English cut-glass-accented chocolatier.

Chapel St ("argh we haven't got any blog photos today!")

Skimming swiftly over some unappetizing Chinese dumpling-themed snacks, we took the tram to Chapel St (long road SE of CBD) for the independent shop browsing and people watching. A huge antiques/junk shop arranged into cabinets and cubbies could have absorbed me for the rest of the trip.

We ate at a Japanese diner, then headed to the Mission to Seafarers for an...Illuisionaire Magic Show! The building is a fascinating place, still operating to serve seafarers. It's like stepping back in time into a dance hall. But the show was in the brick Norla Dome, originally a gymnasium and now an atmospheric, close space. The magicians, Rosanna and Sam Angelico, were actually very good: engaged the audience without being annoying and made lots of things disappear and reappear.








Sunday - Great Ocean Road

On Sunday morning we took the train south to Geelong, to meet Gwyn and Andy, family friends who had generously offered to take us to the 12 Apostles and the Great Ocean Road. Dodging tourists and the rain we admired the huge rocky columns along the coast, and imagined the early sailing vessels navigating the choppy waters, bringing migrants and gold hunters.

The Loch Ard Gorge

There were only two survivors of the Loch Ard, 19-yr-old Eva and an able seaman, who revived them both with brandy and then climbed out of the steep gorge in which they were washed ashore. Through incredible good chance he met some drovers in the otherwise deserted coastal scrub. 

The rolling weather made for a dramatic Great Ocean Road sky. We stopped for coffee and home-made cake on the beach, and for a koala bear hanging out on the edge of the road! Wide-ranging conversations took up the drive back, to the Victoria market's cheese, Aussie wine and hearty soup, and an early night.

Monday

Roger turfed me out of bed at 8am, to join him for a compulsory jog along the Geelong esplanade. Gwyn then drove us to see the clashing waters at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay at Point Lonsdale, where we soaked up sunshine over coffee and watched a big fuel ship leave the bay. Too soon we had to leave Victoria by train, bus and plane. 



In Wellington airport we landed just ahead of a plane bringing my uni friend Rob from Brisbane!