How to climb a 6088m (19,974ft) mountain

[Roger] Arriving into central La Paz is a little like driving over a cliff, but one in which the near-vertical drop hosts extensive housing. Once we'd done some much-needed washing in our Airbnb apartment, we set out to explore the city, with the help of a Red Cap walking tour.

Our two guides' sense of humour was as dry as the moistureless air. "Bolivians like dehydrating things", said the newest member of the Red Cap team as we wandered through a food market. 

We learnt about the (in)famous La Paz prison where inmates can buy themselves swanky apartments with their profits from cocaine refinement. We gawped at some dehydrated  llama fetuses in the witches market. We nodded sadly as our guides told us about Bolivia's troubled political history. We also had a shot of alcohol at the end, the perfect conclusion to a walking tour. 

The rest of the day was spent preparing for our climb of Huayna Potosí, which at 6088m (19,974 feet) is significantly higher than Everest base camp (5380m). 

View of Huayna Potosi, behind a roadside cemetery

We set off on our two-day adventure the next day (Thursday 9 November). Gridlocked La Paz traffic was our first challenge, but our able driver soon had us deposited at base camp (4700m), where our guide Estaban provided an Avocado, Cheese and Tomato Sandwich Lunch (ACTSL). 

Looking back down towards base camp from high camp

Refugio II with glacier and false summit behind

The trek to high camp (5200m) was arduous, as we trudged through increasingly thin air with all our usual 'tramping' (hiking) kit plus the equipment needed for the climb - crampons, ice axe, hefty boots, gaiters etc. At Refugio II (bunkroom + kitchen) we admired the glacial landscape before an early dinner of LOTS of pasta, cheese and tomato, prepared and served by Estaban. Together with our fellow aspiring mountaineers (Australians, Israelis and one German) we tried to get some sleep from 6-11.30pm.

[Dora] Midnight was breakfast time, then kit-up, distribute some immodium to  stomach-troubled mountaineers, and head out into the darkness. Unfortunately over the first section, rocky and steep, we were pursued by the three speedy Israelis, leading to an early sense of humour and oxygen failure from me. However the snow was close and crampon-strapping provided a good rest. Roped together (Estaban-Dora-Roger) we set off slowly up the glacier, three small pools of light in the darkness.

It's hard to describe the effort required just to walk slowly up a slope in such thin air. The darkness reduced my world to a small patch of snow in front of me, my own swaying shadow and the sound of Roger's motivational monologue behind me. As we inched higher it seemed to reduce further to simply a set of lungs and the sound of breaths, one by one. Three hours' trudge and I was forcing an in-out breath every tiny step, focused on maintaining the steady rhythm.

Estaban stopped us and briefly explained that if we wanted to return, now was the time. We hadn't even seen the dawn yet, so giving up was not an option. I took a Sorochi pill (coca, aspirin and caffeine) and we pushed onward. We discovered why it had been the time to turn back: a steep icy incline was next. We were hurried along and pulled up by Estaban, with erratic ice axe use and an un-negotiable rest at the top. 

A further three hours of shuffling took us up the upper glacier, across several small and one large crevasse, which we had to straddle then use the ice axe to haul ourselves up the other side. Finally, the dawn came and we could see another group just ahead of us - both big psychological boosts. At 6000m we paused: "treinte minutas" to the top!

The icy ridge and path just below the summit (photo taken on the way down)

The final push included a slim, icy ridge on whose side we perched precariously whilst others came down. We collapsed on the summit just before 6am as sunshine poked through the clouds. 6088m. And having just achieved "the hardest thing in the world" ... Roger asked me to marry him! He presented a beautiful NZ pounamu (greenstone) ring that he'd smuggled up taped to the inside of his sunglasses case! I carried it down, on my finger.

Just after the proposal, on the summit

The view from the summit, as the clouds cleared

Just off the summit, with others there behind us

Glacial scenery and crevasse on the way down

Elated, the way down was certainly easier, helped by the increasing oxygen. However, Estaban was keen to keep the speed on so we were down before the crevasses started melting in the sunshine. The ice ridge and ice wall tested our axe skills again, and we were incredibly relieved to reach Refugio II. Back in normal hiking boots and with snacks on board, we slithered down to base camp to a second Estaban ACTSL.

View from the La Paz hotel verandah

As an engagement treat Roger had booked us in to La Paz's fanciest hotel's penthouse apartment, which had huge comfy sofas and a steam room! Heaven. It took all of the next day to recover from the climb, and make all the happy phone calls and messages to family and friends. We also had a relaxed Mexican dinner with our backpacker friend Catherine, and the next night, delicious tender llama skewers at the hotel.

Time for the jungle!