A Titicaca interlude

Our big coach went on one of these barges!

Straddling the border between Bolivia and Peru, Lake Titicaca makes a majestical highest-large-body-of-water in the world. Approaching the lake-side, Virgin-worshipping town of Copacabana from Bolivia, we had to cross a small sliver of lake on a barge (us on one, our Diana Tours bus on another).

Our first stop in Copacabana was the Basilica, where pilgrims flock every day for blessings in their garlanded cars and minibuses. Unfortunately the famous black madonna's antechapel was undergoing renovations so we weren't able to see her, but the church was impressively festooned with flowers, silver and a 'ceremonial' virgin de Copacabana. The original, dark-skinned sculpture is very old, precious and fragile (and surprisingly small).

The Basilica's serene courtyard

Tipped off by our French friend on the La Paz walking tour, we ate fresh lake fish and omelette at small semi-temporary tent-kitchen-restaurants on the beach. Though perhaps not the culinary epiphany it was made out to be, the meal set us up for a loooong, crowded ferry ride from Copacabana to the Isla del Sol in the middle of the lake.

Nothing could have prepared us for the looooooooong walk up to the ridgeline of the island, where our hotel (partially still being built) perched with views both ways across the lake. After a shower and rest, we finally experienced the magical Isla with a walk up to the highest point, to watch the sunset.

For dinner we took our chances on a small, empty, family-run restaurant, which produced impressive spag bol and quinoa soup (an Andean fave).

Sunrise over the Andes and Isla del Luna

I was up at 5.55am to see the sun rise over the Andes from our terrace (not quite through my toes, as enjoyed by Mum and Dad in the great 2003 South America Tour). A few hours and a substantial breakfast later we were path-finding south to the well-preserved Inca waystation for pilgrims. At the north end of the island, the temples and ceremonial sites the pilgirms were heading for lay dotted on our map.

The south end of the island is tantalisingly close to the mainland (but not Copacabana)

On the way back north we sighed (well I did) at the snow-capped Andes in the distance, and failed to capture them sufficiently beautifully on camera (see left). Heading along the ridgeline beyond our hostel, we were stopped firmly by a local who told us we couldn't go any further - no tourists allowed. No boats were visiting the north either. Thus thwarted, we plodded back to make enquiries. There is an ongoing conflict between the north and south halves of the island, likely over uneven tourism revenue and associated prosperity. The north has been completely out of bounds to tourists since April 2017; it's unclear if that is self-imposed or the southerners controlling the boats.


Now with 4 hours to kill, we wended our way back down to the harbour of Yumani via the three water springs (right) and original Inca steps, and established ourselves at the best table on the best terrace. Our long relaxed lunch involved pizza, chocolate pancakes, coffee, and a view of a touristy Inca reed boat with 'oarsmen' and a motor. And the Isla de Luna and Andes serene behind.

The 3pm boat finally pitched up, and we sat inside (but near the back for a quick exit if needed) and made progress with our books. Our final 1.5hrs in Bolivia were spent changing money, eating a hamburger (please remember we did eat local in Copacabana before, and on the Island) and boarding the Diana Tours bus for Puno, Peru.