Biking off more than we could pedal

In hindsight ambitiously, we planned a last-minute weekend bike ride round Pencarrow Head and onto the end part of the Rimutaka Cycle Trail, with a night in a bach (translation for non-kiwis: rudimentary holiday house), shown by an X below in the map below. The idea was to go there (anti-clockwise) and back on the route shown on this map, more or less. Eastbourne is across the harbour from Wellington city.

In preparation we went out with our respective football teams for end-of-season meals on Friday night. The next morning we had to listen to the dulcet tones of Radio 4 to soothe our heads. Then we ate some eggs, loaded the bikes and set off. 

Pencarrow Lighthouse and ship

In a nutshell, we had a moderately pleasant, if head-windy ride from the parking spot, round Pencarrow Head and its lighthouse to Baring Head, where we actually took the (orange) road inland thru farmland and had late lunch on a windy hillside. Rejoining the gravel track at Orongorongo, where the Rimutaka Cycle Trail officially ends (it goes clockwise over the Rimutakas), we pushed on with only a short stop for Roger to climb a boulder. Barneys Hut (marked 'Hut' after Turakirae Head above) came and went.

Lunch just before Baring Head

Then we reached the 18km section of trail. We knew this would be tough, with 10% of it described online as "un-rideable" sections of rocks and soft sand. It didn't disappoint. We picked our way over the rocky shingle fields fanning out from damp, green mountains, hopping and wading through streams and around debris washed up by the southerlies of the previous few days. There were some fun downhills. Then we hit the soft sand, a bloated dead cow and a puncture.

Turakirae Head, before it got tough 

Whilst admiring the 'raised beaches' causes by tectonic plate movements, we puffed up and down sand dunes. Definitely at least 3km un-rideable. Shortly after the stench of a ballooning dead cow has spurred us on, Roger's tyre went flat. A slow puncture meant we got to a campsite and signs of civilisation (empty houses), but were still over 10km from our bach. Trying to replace the inner tube, we discovered the back wheel was not quick-release and required a spanner we didn't have. Too late for the punctured inner to be resurrected, so Roger jogged and I rode until we reached the road at Ocean Beach and were able to call for back-up - the friendly bach owners. 

Feeling Scotland

The bach itself was a classic: log burner and cosy, decorated with 'African art' including parachuting tribesmen. Carrying an extensive meal became worth it, and we toasted/set alight to marshmallows in the log burner.

The next morning, though we acquired a spanner from a friendly neighbour and replaced the tyre, it had become too late to go back the way we came at the necessary saddle-sore pace, and in time to prep for some dinner guests. We called in further back-up in the form of Dave, owner of The Bike Shed, Pencarrow, his van and his fruit-and-nut chocolate. Dave kindly (and for a reasonable rate) picked us up near Featherston. We'd enjoyed a hill-walk and leisurely cycle north while he drove over the Rimutakas.

Barrow Hill view over farmland

An hour in the car with Dave and we were all old friends. He dropped us back at our little car - a welcome sight - and utilitising the most efficient 1% of battery Roger's iPhone has ever produced we got ourselves to Pak 'n' Save, then Bike Barn (bikes were booked in for a much-needed service) and home.

Pudding pizza!

We hosted my choir friends Renata and Erica for homemade pizza (including chocolate and marshmallow pizza!) and too much brilliant girly chat - Roger had to retire to Skype in our room.

Next time - we venture south again, to Windwhistle near Mt Hutt.