Adventures with Queen Charlotte

Wellington put on its best for Sophie and Adam’s last day there, and we had to apply the evening suncream as we chugged out of the harbour at 5pm. Watching the sun-hazed city slip into the distance we enjoyed an extensive picnic clearly envied by the other passengers on the rear open deck.

After sliding past wild Red Rocks we gently pitched around across the Cook Straight, during which we logically sat downstairs in the steamy café with cricket on the TV and a quiet view out the front windows. Roger also succumbed to a ferry marketing ploy: that ten to seven is Scone Time! It was delicious though. Back out on the windy, noisier deck the evening light glowed on the green and ochre entrance to the Sounds (captured in a 10-second time lapse below).

Our hostel in Picton was a characterful old rambling wooden weatherboard house called The Villa. We’d splashed out on double rooms, and splashed straight into the spa pool after making ourselves at home. We were joined by a friendly man from Jersey and two girls he was unsuccessfully flirting with, possibly because his “banter” consisted solely of ejecting water from the bottom of a rubber duck at them. We sipped our Poppies late harvest Riesling disdainfully.

Early the next morning saw us boarding Cougar Lines, for a whistle-stop water taxi tour of the Sounds (including Furneaux Lodge where a wedding was rumoured) that deposited us at Punga Cove. We briefly met the (imaginatively named) Camp Bay campsite host, who was doing a two-week stint collecting money and mountain-biking all over the area.

Inspired by her athleticism, we galloped up the first hill. Lots of ups and downs followed. Tea in our new thermos from previous visitor Tom sustained us, as did a conversation with a gloomy German woman carrying a full big pack. Cougar Lines was transferring our packs both days.

 

21km and much chat later, we arrived at the “hostel” which was actually a nice little apartment! Roger, Adam and I went for a swim off the jetty in the choppy, windy water, then we acquired crisps and beers from the hosts, Sophie made full use of the kitchen to cook steak, potatoes and salad, and we caught Back to the Future 2 on TV. Luxury.



A cooler, windier start the next morning cleared to a day of panoramic views as we rounded headlands and bays (more imaginative names such as Bay of Many Coves) and made good time on the level. We stopped for lunch and a jetty jump (Sophie on photography duties) at pretty Mistletoe Bay, which was experiencing a very high tide - the beach had disappeared. Though the shop opening times at Mistletoe eco resort thwarted our ice cream plans, we made it to Anakiwa with exactly 10 minutes to spare – ice block time!

Back at the Villa we legitimately soaked tired limbs in the spa pool. This time we had it to ourselves. A wander into town took us, inevitably, to the Thirsty Pig pub, where the locals eyed us. Beers and a huge burger for Roger later, we said goodbye to him – off on Sounds Air back to Wellington.

Back at the Villa chef Sophie whipped up gnocchi and pasta in a fresh peppers and tomato sauce, with a final signature salad. We ate outside in the evening sunlight, with suncream on.

Early morning goodbyes and I boarded my own tiny Sounds Air flight to Wellington - my most exciting commute yet.

Debrief beer with Rich and Lucy,
at an authentic Wellington-German Beer Hall

We'd hoped to start the dragon boat season on Wednesday, but the Weather Bomb hit! So the team went to the pub instead. On Thursday morning my flight out of Welly for Auckland and on to LHR was the only one to leave - the Jet star pilot landed on his second attempt and we took off without hold baggage for fear the wind would rip off the door.

Dora enjoying a beer the size of her head